tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16608435614491618292024-03-18T20:59:05.203-07:00NutBitsnuts, bits and nutstrdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-9128769089923932952015-05-10T00:11:00.000-07:002015-05-11T03:25:36.511-07:00Κατά παραγγελία, ολοκληρωμένα 3d printer kits<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Έχοντας συναρμολογήσει 5 μηχανήματα με διαφορετικά σχέδια, έχω αποκτήσει μεγάλη οικιότητα όχι μόνο στη συναρμολόγηση και τη βαθμονόμιση ("calibration") αλλά και στα κομμάτια από τα οποία αποτελείται κάθε μηχάνημα. Πού πραγματικά αξίζει να επιλέξει κανείς πιο ακριβά κομμάτια και από πού μπορεί να γλιτώσει κάποια χρήματα. Παράλληλα, η εύρεση των εξαρτημάτων είναι αρκετά εύκολη υπόθεση, μιας και γνωρίζω πλέον την "αγορά", ποιός θα παρέχει το συγκεκριμένο κομμάτι, τι εναλλακτικές επιλογές υπάρχουν και ποιές οι μεταξύ τους διαφορές.<br />
Με βάση τα παραπάνω και το γεγονός ότι όσοι ξεκινάν με την 3d εκτύπωση χάνονται στην αρχή με την πληθώρα επιλογών τόσο από παραπλίσια μεταξύ τους εξαρτήματα όσο και από το πλήθος e-shop και πωλητών που υπάρχουν στο internet, σκέφτηκα να παρέχω μια τύπου υπηρεσία κατά την οποία θα συγκεντρώνω όλα το κιτ σε συνεργασία με τον επίδοξο χρήστη. <br />
Κατά καιρούς, όταν τύπωνα για κάποιον τα πλαστικά συνήθως τον βοηθούσα και στην επιλογή εξαρτημάτων ή στην ανάλυση των χαρακτηριστικών που θα έπρεπε να εξετάζει κατά την επιλογή. Χρειάζεται μια εξοικίωση την οποία δεν διαθέτει κανείς ξεκινώντας και δεν υπάρχει μια μέθοδος, αλλά εξαρτάται και από τις απαιτήσεις του χρήστη. Αν δεν έχεις κάνει το διάβασμά σου τουλάχιστον γύρω από το μοντέλο που σε ενδιαφέρει, πριν προχωρήσεις στην αγορά, μπορεί να βρεθείς αντιμέτωπος είτε με μη συμβατά εξαρτήματα, ειδικά όταν ξεφεύγεις από το γνωστό Prusa μοντέλο, είτε με πολύ προβληματικά κομμάτια στην προσπάθεια να πέσει το κόστος.<br />
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Επομένως, αυτό που προσφέρω είναι η συγκέντρωση και τεστάρισμα όλου του κιτ για διάφορα μοντέλα εκτυπωτών με ένα κόστος το οποίο είναι σίγουρα μικρότερο από την αγορά κάποιου έτοιμου, μη παραμετροποιήσιμου κιτ. Πέρα από το Prusa i3, αν κανείς επιλέξει ένα άλλο μοντέλο, οι επιλογές που έχει είναι αρκετά ακριβότερες, ενώ στην πραγματικότητα το μόνο που αλλάζει είναι το hardware κομμάτι, το οποίο υποτίθεται ότι είναι φθηνό συγκριτικά με τα ηλεκτρονικά ή το hot-end.<br />
Στην πράξη, για το κλασσικό Prusa i3, με 300-400 ευρώ μπορεί κανείς να αποκτήσει ένα αξιόπιστο μηχάνημα, με μια καθυστέρηση ενός μήνα το πολύ από τη στιγμή που θα αγοράσει το κιτ μέχρι να συγκεντρώσω όλα τα κομμάτια. Αλλά όταν θα παραλάβει το κιτ θα γνωρίζει ότι έχει όλα όσα χρειάζονται για να ετοιμάσει το μηχάνημα, δίχως επιπλέον καθυστερήσεις ή αστοχίες. Αν ζητηθεί, με ένα επιπλέον κόστος μπορώ να κάνω την συναρμολογήση και βαθμονόμηση επίσης. Παράλληλα, η υποστήριξη είναι δεδομένη από την πλευρά μου.</div>
trdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-71827157612338043062015-04-21T03:12:00.003-07:002015-05-10T00:20:03.786-07:00Prusa i3 semi-assembled with Duet elecs for Sale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Πωλείται το παρακάτω RepRap Prusa i3.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Frame-πλαστικά: Prusa i3 Rework variant</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Ηλεκτρονικά: Duet ή RAMPS++, 450Watt PSU</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Hotend: J-head 0.35, αγγλικής προέλευσης</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Hobbed bolt: Hyena</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Κίνηση: GT2, (100steps/mm) XY, M5 ντίζα σοτν Ζ.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Αναλυτικά:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Το frame, έχει M10 ντίζες που το κάνουν πιο βαρύ και πιο σταθερό. Επίσης στις βάσεις του frame, του Υ άξονα και στους Ζ κινητήρες έχω βάλει φελό, για καλύτερη πρόσφυση και μείωση θορύβου.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Σαν πλακέτα οδήγησης το Duet (http://reprap.org/wiki/Duet) είναι η επόμενη γενιά ελεγκτών με επεξεργαστή ARM στα 32bit (το Arduino τρέχει στα 16bit).</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Σύνδεση μέσω Ethernet και USB.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Υποστήριξη SD</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Web interface, μέσω Ethernet.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Ψηφιακή ρύθμιση για το ρεύμα των κινητήρων.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Γενική παρατήρηση, το Duet, είναι πολύ βολικό. Όλες οι ρυθμίσεις που αφορούν το μηχάνημα γίνονται απευθείας, απλά πειράζοντας ένα αρχέιο στην SD κάρτα, δίχως να πρέπει να ξαναπεράσει κανείς firmware. Μου έλυσε τα χέρια όταn ρύθμιζα το μηχάνημα. Το web interface, είναι εύκολα τροποποιήσιμο, για κάποιον που ξέρει Javascript, και αφήνει πεδίο για αρκετό hacking.</span><br />
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Το Duet μπορεί να αντικατασταθεί με RAMPS το οποίο έρχεται μαζί με SD, Bluetooth, LCD panel. Για το RAMPS υπάρχει πολύ περισσότερο υλικό με οδηγούς και troubleshoot απ ότι για το Duet.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">To hotend, είναι από Αγγλία, με 0.35 οπή, κεραμικό heater (γρήγορο ζέσταμα), από μπρούτζο για καλύτερη διατήρηση της θερμοκρασίας.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Για Hobbed bolt, επέλεξα το Hyena v2 γιατί είναι ίσως το καλύτερο στη δουλειά του. Επιτρέπει καλύτερο έλεγχο στο filament, και ασκεί παραπάνω δύναμη με την ίδια ροπή. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/48806889@N05/8697273067/)</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Για την κίνηση οι ιμάντες GT2 είναι πλέον κλασσικοί απλά έχω βάλει γρανάζια με 16 δόντια για μεγαλύτερη ροπή και περισσότερα βήματα/χιλιοστό.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Θα κάνω μερικές εκτυπώσεις για καλιμπράρισμα μια από αυτές τις μέρες για να βεβαιωθώ ότι όλα δουλεύουν ρολόι.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Το μηχάνημα κοστίζει 500 ευρώ για Ελλάδα, δίχως μεταφορικά. Για τη Θεσσαλονίκη μπορούμε να τα γλιτώσουμε.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Επίσης μπορώ να προσφέρω υποστήριξη, για κάποιες μέρες μέχρι να εξοικιωθεί κανείς με το μηχάνημα, να κάνει μερικές εκτυπώσεις, να μάθει πως γίνεται το το βασικό service κλπ.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">Επισυνάπτω μερικές φωτογραφίες.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">[</span><a href="https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxcNNM6HfxBOREFxdGFwTmtnVkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow" style="color: #355f35; font-family: Arial;" target="_blank">drive.google.com</a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial;">]</span><br />
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trdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-26318925204205240392014-12-10T16:30:00.006-08:002014-12-10T16:30:59.473-08:00Sublime with OpenSCAD<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: left;">I've been using OpenSCAD with Sublime Text, for some time and it really made things pretty easy.</span></div>
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I've uploaded some files on <a href="https://github.com/cr3a7ure/sublimeCAD" target="_blank">Github</a> in order to make the most out of it, such as building scad files, exporting stl files and manage your whole project through Sublime.</div>
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Here i'll post some pictures for now.</div>
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trdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-69473604273569455972014-05-20T15:39:00.000-07:002014-05-20T16:02:38.653-07:003d printed aluminium profile guides<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I'm using a MendelMax 1.5 and a Kossel alternative 3d printer. Both have their body made out of aluminium profiles, which i found out very useful and easy to handle. Profiles are straight, rigid and lightweight. My intention is to use them as the linear rails for the printers since they are also cheaper to chromium bars which i can't source easily in "normal" prices here in Greece.<br />
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I started using PLA for my tests, because i was already using the linear bushings ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24990 ) and they were pretty good. I have no yet come to a conclusion about PLA guides on aluminium. I used them under my print-bed which weights more than 2kg and they wear off little by little on every print, leaving dust on the profiles.<br />
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Then, i tried to use some PTFE tubing on contact with the profile. At first i inserted the PTFE into the profile's channel. It seemed to work a bit, but the PTFE was also leaving some dust. Also the rectangular base had to touch the profile in order to stay in correct place. I thought also to use PTFE on top of the profile and not inside the channel, although i haven't found the correct tolerances.<br />
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Another approach was to use ABS with PTFE on my MMax's X-axis. The ABS was turning to dust far more easily and it was obvious that the carriage was not aligned any more due to the weight of the extruder. I tried another design with better balance but the outcome was the same.<br />
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Lastly, i bought some nylon (Taulman 645) for another project, and thought to give it a try also. Although the tolerances again are not so good and the nylon "bushings" came out a bit tight, with some post-processing they fit nicely on the profiles. The good thing about nylon is that there are no visible wear on the profiles. No matter how many times i tried to roll them on the profile on order to get loose, they remain tight. As you can see, i cut one too and removed some plastic to test them. The nylon guide didn't wobble at all, even though the rectangular shape was broken.<br />
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Removed 2.1kg from the delta printer, and from Kossel alt seems more like Kossel!<br />
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I am satisfied with their performance over the 0.5$ bushings and will let them on my delta until i buy some more nylon and find the correct tolerances for higher speeds.<br />
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Currently i printed this calibration test on my delta with the settings below:<br />
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Marlin settings:<br />
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<blockquote>
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {6000,6000,6000,10000} <br />
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 /<br />
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 <br />
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 19.0 // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 19.0 // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)</blockquote>
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Slic3r settings:<br />
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perimeter_speed = 70<br />
infill_speed = 100<br />
travel_speed = 180</blockquote>
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With some editing in the scad file already on thingiverse, you can get some working guides for your profiles. PLA is still in the game but i'll use it on lightweight applications.<br />
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I need to add some more detailed pictures. </div>
trdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-5932514297716967602014-05-16T00:13:00.000-07:002014-05-16T00:13:10.711-07:00Daily public log<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
http://cr3a7ure.tumblr.com/<br />
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Tumblr is easier to use with a smartphone than it is blogger..<br />Here i'll just sum up the actual "knowledge" obtained, but it's difficult to write a full post often.</div>
trdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-85142165144347869582014-04-03T13:31:00.000-07:002014-04-03T14:17:46.927-07:003D printing Nylon on phenolic sheet<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I started playing around with nylon prints today. Following <a href="http://richrap.blogspot.gr/2013/04/3d-printing-with-nylon-618-filament-in.html">Rich's post</a> on nylon, i bought some Taulman 645 and searched for the tuflon surface. Rich specified that the Whale type is the one to go.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfT9ERKPDS9VOkpCePQ29UYSvTA1l91wHE483fF9aS9e0u4bDAqKXYkJlQ2CJC3SkQ5FYygj_CNXmC62wY-Axkid4YRPZX2ymv4t2NoX7qHTLlF2uVkiyRU44P7hlnrbtnmFgqwK0R-j5-/s1600/IMG_20140403_181255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="3d printing on phenolic sheet" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfT9ERKPDS9VOkpCePQ29UYSvTA1l91wHE483fF9aS9e0u4bDAqKXYkJlQ2CJC3SkQ5FYygj_CNXmC62wY-Axkid4YRPZX2ymv4t2NoX7qHTLlF2uVkiyRU44P7hlnrbtnmFgqwK0R-j5-/s1600/IMG_20140403_181255.jpg" height="240" title="3d printing on phenolic sheet" width="320" /></a>After some search i found that <a href="http://www.tufnol.com/tufnol/default.asp?id=34">tufnol whale</a> is standardized under: BS EN 60893-3-4 Type <u>PF CC 203.</u> So anything like that should do the job. As i saw <a href="http://www.lamtexinsulation.com/bakelite.html">here</a>, the first group is paper-phenolic with specifications EN 60893-3-4-<u>PF CP 206</u> and DIN:7735 GRADE HP <u>2061.x</u> these are named also bakelites. While the cotton-phenolic has specs <u>BS EN... Type PF CC 203</u> and DIN:7735-GRADE <u>HGW: 2082</u> or 2083.<br />
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So with these numbers i found locally a sheet with DIN:7735-GRADE HGW: 2082, 1mm thickness and tested it with the nylon.<br />
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My setup is a custom MendelMax 1.5 with E-3D hotend and a nozzle of 0.25mm. Nylon came out nice, without any problem at max printing speed of 60mm/s.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20avdq7tKmYJ7Qk2X_TByiPUFPM1jYpwSpI1Ryxh1rEWjpwMJPL_jY-jQcN4VueqCAq9Sw7NOV-Ivnnle-7cWvV30762Ycw8gPXKejGQBP6VyKSD0MWSTnMKJ8bzkDFWJO_tNQ_2liW1j/s1600/IMG_20140403_181333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20avdq7tKmYJ7Qk2X_TByiPUFPM1jYpwSpI1Ryxh1rEWjpwMJPL_jY-jQcN4VueqCAq9Sw7NOV-Ivnnle-7cWvV30762Ycw8gPXKejGQBP6VyKSD0MWSTnMKJ8bzkDFWJO_tNQ_2liW1j/s1600/IMG_20140403_181333.jpg" height="240" title="phenolic sheet" width="320" /></a></div>
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The sheet could flex at a certain point. This was good on order to remove the part easier from it. On the other hand it made a curve on the center and the 4 clips were not sufficient to keep it aligned on top of the glass, so i used some tape around it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg59G1A9DSfogseP3xyRJKpnSbVMYIjyfC7ZRhKZ9eTUMHSw1rZovEaDkh5tR4i6RoatKtLIut2Zws9Pm8n6wfoPm_41LtGAa4fbBmxV5OsxpyGKhhf_SucaVdrvVEA7JEtAFlaGtiszf-M/s1600/IMG_20140403_190931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg59G1A9DSfogseP3xyRJKpnSbVMYIjyfC7ZRhKZ9eTUMHSw1rZovEaDkh5tR4i6RoatKtLIut2Zws9Pm8n6wfoPm_41LtGAa4fbBmxV5OsxpyGKhhf_SucaVdrvVEA7JEtAFlaGtiszf-M/s1600/IMG_20140403_190931.jpg" height="320" title="nylon on phenolic" width="240" /></a></div>
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Nylon stuck too much on it and since i had forgotten the 5mm brim (for ABS..) you couldn't just grab the part from the phenolic sheet. Although later i did it... when i was bored playing around i just pulled it with power... and the first layer came with it...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-S5NigJ7O349mvMfOChtEY6WmEMk1fCbmStb6g4SOr8wgZEVYQqoqkVdPMbgZFFUT8k-hayuYgasQEfQHVx3H9oVuOhjlXa5BtLa3zkOjUj9hBiVzko3pfSchmWyrax7ncT6bz3AHuwfv/s1600/IMG_20140403_214617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-S5NigJ7O349mvMfOChtEY6WmEMk1fCbmStb6g4SOr8wgZEVYQqoqkVdPMbgZFFUT8k-hayuYgasQEfQHVx3H9oVuOhjlXa5BtLa3zkOjUj9hBiVzko3pfSchmWyrax7ncT6bz3AHuwfv/s1600/IMG_20140403_214617.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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I have been playing around with many surfaces to print on, since it was the worst problem i had to face when i started with reprap. 'Tufnol' seems to working very well with nylon without any wrapping and saving the power of HPB. I hope this post may help others find easier some 'tufnol' since i explained a bit the numbers. If you still can't find i can send you some through <a href="http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=1025" target="_blank">emakershop</a>, since i bought 1mx1m...<br />
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PS: I hope i would do something with this "cloth" too, before May :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfptpTbwK4MdfhibXDHLowJYBSKnYGFI8roEBez5scS-gsv1MLCtLEuI-I0Ml_d0izXFMbVy82aIlJhrfIN8gra8F0WZ8DB5zSfIPVvuvM2v73SeNZo-aTqE1KXEfjLJvPAxuexGmAv8Js/s1600/IMG_20140331_150516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfptpTbwK4MdfhibXDHLowJYBSKnYGFI8roEBez5scS-gsv1MLCtLEuI-I0Ml_d0izXFMbVy82aIlJhrfIN8gra8F0WZ8DB5zSfIPVvuvM2v73SeNZo-aTqE1KXEfjLJvPAxuexGmAv8Js/s1600/IMG_20140331_150516.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a><br />
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trdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-52700759409257776052013-10-30T17:07:00.000-07:002013-10-30T17:08:21.744-07:00Custom PTFE/PLA, aluminium profile bushing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here come some photos, i'll extend it further when it's fully working on an actual 3D printer.<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B62qBd9fuiOmU0JoeV9CWW1BeFU&usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B62qBd9fuiOmU0JoeV9CWW1BeFU&usp=sharing</a></div>
trdt3http://www.blogger.com/profile/08402212492237588386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1660843561449161829.post-4723367388953187762013-07-16T13:38:00.002-07:002014-04-10T12:58:15.847-07:00Multiple cam driven Bowden Extruder and the Palette <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
While i was playing with my 3d printer printing figures from games, i started thinking about colorful printing just like a typical printer. So first there was the idea of a palette that can hold many colors-hotends. The cam driven extruder (<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10783">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10783</a>, <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16429">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16429</a>) was awesome but i needed it to be in plastic and more "reprapable" than the existing design. I made a mix of them using 608ZZ bearings and herringbone gears. Also i had in mind to use the same motor to select hot-end and to choose filament by using the same degrees of rotation for the cam and the palette, or by adding another gear at the cam that would fix the ratio. The cam drive picks a filament every 36 degrees, and the same degrees are for the palette, to change hot-end. Although i didn't see it working i'm sure it will work. The truth is that i rushed to make it after the finish of the exam period.<br />
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Both designs are parametric, but i chose not to put them on customizer because i think they are not ready yet. The scad files here: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:118542">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:118542</a> and <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:118529">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:118529</a><br />
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The palette<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXWBAqOD-pvz9yBGjw5WAk_6CR6QIvOPmKQwR_vhe559Cohfltp8HCItPotLEHMOOcQxyFtRoe4sl015mCIZKXbrB4llfBzY6h-YLp_tcbT2ErUMKpyL5ZoOkp7B2I6muLwzIw1N1K3dQ/s1600/IMG_0143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXWBAqOD-pvz9yBGjw5WAk_6CR6QIvOPmKQwR_vhe559Cohfltp8HCItPotLEHMOOcQxyFtRoe4sl015mCIZKXbrB4llfBzY6h-YLp_tcbT2ErUMKpyL5ZoOkp7B2I6muLwzIw1N1K3dQ/s1600/IMG_0143.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The palette - looks huge on a printrbot :)</td></tr>
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The palette can be mounted easily on a machine with a geared extruder. Just remove the big gear, mount the palette in front of it and then back in place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bDmw9NrOy_PhDrFu7z3lWMcWyY2ykwyy3ke5rgC6tAvTieLCU8SOPMMfE4JIZpFeXKC2pUuzWfCUV538Qtkp5K4LTCt6DeBJh-TA5Sxdqi-Ku1zHAkqhTxUQrpb_t6yfEpms1sTI0lAx/s1600/IMG_0142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bDmw9NrOy_PhDrFu7z3lWMcWyY2ykwyy3ke5rgC6tAvTieLCU8SOPMMfE4JIZpFeXKC2pUuzWfCUV538Qtkp5K4LTCt6DeBJh-TA5Sxdqi-Ku1zHAkqhTxUQrpb_t6yfEpms1sTI0lAx/s1600/IMG_0142.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding some teflon tape for testing</td></tr>
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It is designed to hold J-head hot-ends because of their weight and reliability. For the bowden cable i decided to go with the snap-fit ones for easy change. Snap-fits are hold with 2 screws. Currently it seems that their hole is a bit small but that gives more pressure on them.<br />
The angle of rotation is varying according to the number of slots the palette has. It starts with 18 degrees for 10 hot-ends (18=180/10) and keep goes. I suggest you choose the 5 hot-ends because the angle is the same for the cam drive too.<br />
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At first the idea was to change the distance between the 8mm axis and the hot-ends, but the distance came out to small for some numbers so i chose to give a default. Currently the surface seems big for the 4mm tubes 'cause they bend easily, but i'm not sure about the 6mm ones.<br />
The scad file i believe it's understandable at least in contrast with the ones for the cam driver..<br />
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Multiple & Parametric CAM driven extruder<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcv3MFLEZ6AoS9nEXmBGPfHll6-Fb6FI1lFhCq9WJ_jg9DGPYZxMf5qwDqgJANSTiO1AAcUqY4TCbqoIGkx2E2AJHUmcRcdIXKOvsaIA5YALDOk3SE9LH8tXpDfrzcclueV9I1NxSLRo3Y/s1600/IMG_0139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcv3MFLEZ6AoS9nEXmBGPfHll6-Fb6FI1lFhCq9WJ_jg9DGPYZxMf5qwDqgJANSTiO1AAcUqY4TCbqoIGkx2E2AJHUmcRcdIXKOvsaIA5YALDOk3SE9LH8tXpDfrzcclueV9I1NxSLRo3Y/s1600/IMG_0139.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cam driven extruder</td></tr>
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In order to feed the palette i needed an extruder that could handle it's potential. So the cam came in handy, previous version of a cam driven extruder (link) was not meant for printing. I based on it and on the first idea to make mine, but it needs optimization.<br />
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This one is also parametric, as i started designing them at the time customizer challenge was on, but couldn't finish them. Print two motor mounts and two idlers and you can choose as many as ten filament feeds (well, not true cause it needs some fixing in the scad file..).<br />
Number ten comes out of 36*10, as the angle between different filaments. I used a simple motor mount, but after printing and assembling it, many other mounts can be used with a little modification.<br />
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I used 608ZZ bearings to push the filaments on the hobbed axis, with this one snap-in holders. They seem pretty good and rolled on the desk while i was pushing them with my hands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-y3CXZnYNQ8j_3-yylCngHFp0voJ_YswWV5u9WbJGfFEO-thXjcJr6dPYDlKv1YlRyPn285pZNCQQZSR0n4_tgfZ30Q98ecPs741O5G0OOZhmnFEwCwYW8DG-01Bw0rQ_mTbi83VIs64c/s1600/IMG_0104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-y3CXZnYNQ8j_3-yylCngHFp0voJ_YswWV5u9WbJGfFEO-thXjcJr6dPYDlKv1YlRyPn285pZNCQQZSR0n4_tgfZ30Q98ecPs741O5G0OOZhmnFEwCwYW8DG-01Bw0rQ_mTbi83VIs64c/s1600/IMG_0104.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">snap-in 608zz holder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMflH1IFJ9t_yPYZbx1Li2RuK9fmSmKkFcD5rZKOMTYsYpRBpKxLoQNp7w2d2y2GLRe6ExajBZl0Uzk1DeLA4xlu7swu7y5yNwcveyH3ROMtiNv1qvD4sjgWjZ-tsNkrsT5Qp26RER7OKa/s1600/IMG_0106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMflH1IFJ9t_yPYZbx1Li2RuK9fmSmKkFcD5rZKOMTYsYpRBpKxLoQNp7w2d2y2GLRe6ExajBZl0Uzk1DeLA4xlu7swu7y5yNwcveyH3ROMtiNv1qvD4sjgWjZ-tsNkrsT5Qp26RER7OKa/s1600/IMG_0106.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">snap-ins with alignment hole</td></tr>
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The 3mm screw above helps to keep them aligned so they have an offset of 36 degrees Also between the two ends of the snap-in you can fit a nut and a washer, one with small diameter to make room for the screw.<br />
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Place the cam between a motor mount and an idler, making sure your axis is going no further than a slim nut because it will interfere with the big gear from the extruder.<br />
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I printed 3 filament feeders in one to check them. They need some tinkering in order to work. I'll try to fix that in the scad file.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNpqfU0ZzGBq0cRzY20Xpenbcza8Oju7F9Xkgozlf_VTAV8op4F3Kx6hdIMetkJTCMCEKM09R-479NpYa5xpdfkQt3gEcWX2qUi1wj0OMZtyzfgpewD7o5EBOJ2jImriToC7rGwrxMFzd/s1600/IMG_0150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNpqfU0ZzGBq0cRzY20Xpenbcza8Oju7F9Xkgozlf_VTAV8op4F3Kx6hdIMetkJTCMCEKM09R-479NpYa5xpdfkQt3gEcWX2qUi1wj0OMZtyzfgpewD7o5EBOJ2jImriToC7rGwrxMFzd/s1600/IMG_0150.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">filament feeders, after removing some plastic in the way of the bearings</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzvo5EQj56Zt_1CIS83SPSiAPabnfzANfdqPMSXWXm4W7yxyxnJ65xaKLk_9AW2ZYIIIQQVU6_azqOxKaPKdHYaHAmsHQowOdCOeaQQL2BbYd5gRLBKNaQtFeUX0l719K_IEXNjT6sLRs6/s1600/IMG_0096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzvo5EQj56Zt_1CIS83SPSiAPabnfzANfdqPMSXWXm4W7yxyxnJ65xaKLk_9AW2ZYIIIQQVU6_azqOxKaPKdHYaHAmsHQowOdCOeaQQL2BbYd5gRLBKNaQtFeUX0l719K_IEXNjT6sLRs6/s1600/IMG_0096.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"hobbed" axis, without a vice</td></tr>
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In order to mount the snap-fits i used a threading. The hobbed axis is made with a slim cutting disk on my dead dremel and a 8mm threaded rod. It seems to grip well against my hand but a true print will tell.<br />
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You can assemble the extruder and the cam apart, and then join them. That way you are able to change the distance between the cam and the extruder and thus the force the bearings exercise on the filament according to it's diameter.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAj_5JG2LRZ0wbag0uuEbxTGvhZ4EO18EavbIYf717osx2axZpIfJeW1SWpVJsvej-An5dh2HhHZp7CGGVrT66zmGsI5SHcnqnTySQE2_HkMtJ3tY8sWnky4FSzVFiY-gvnfEyglKowjhO/s1600/IMG_0138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAj_5JG2LRZ0wbag0uuEbxTGvhZ4EO18EavbIYf717osx2axZpIfJeW1SWpVJsvej-An5dh2HhHZp7CGGVrT66zmGsI5SHcnqnTySQE2_HkMtJ3tY8sWnky4FSzVFiY-gvnfEyglKowjhO/s1600/IMG_0138.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">offset between the cam and the extruder, </td></tr>
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If you want more or less filaments just split it apart. There are two 4mm threaded rods that keep each part in place. You don't have to print again the parts (just the snap-in bearings holders).<br />
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I used 4 bearings for the axis's and three more for the cam. The whole thing will need less than a meter 4mm threaded rod to keep everything in place.<br />
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The following video is the extruder hand driven, and below through pronterface.<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/9fm_4CHXI-c?rel=0" width="420"></iframe>
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I connected the palette's motor and the cam motor on E1 and the extruder at E0. For the firmware i used Marlin. In order to get it working you change tools with T1 to select the cam and then move it a bit to select desired filament. Then back again to T0, to get the extruder running. It was supposed to move the cam and the palette by the same degrees and thus align the hotend and pick a filament, but maybe it's my bad herringbone gears that caused the problem.<br />
For more filaments-hotends a gear with the cοrrect ratio is needed at the cam, in order to select a filament while the palette may turn at 18 or 72 degrees.<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/cNDthkdxQ4o?rel=0" width="420"></iframe>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CFolUY1Yo_0?rel=0" width="420"></iframe>
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more photos<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B62qBd9fuiOmYmMxUmpwVU9jQ3c&usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B62qBd9fuiOmYmMxUmpwVU9jQ3c&usp=sharing</a></div>
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